Paris witnessed one of the most anticipated moments of this year’s fashion week. Pierpaolo Piccioli, the longtime creative director of Valentino, unveiled his debut collection for Balenciaga, one of the most architecturally rigorous and historically significant brands in the fashion world. This is not just a change of face for the fashion house after a decade of Demna’s provocative era. This collection also marks a symbolic return to couture in its most sophisticated form.
The “sack dress” is making a stylish comeback — a symbol of women’s freedom
The foundation of the collection was Cristóbal Balenciaga’s iconic 1957 sack dress—a symbol of women’s emancipation and liberation from body-constricting forms. Piccioli reinterpreted it, pairing it with opera gloves, oversized sunglasses, and modern cuts.
Balloon skirts, trapeze dresses in magenta and vivid green shades, and asymmetrical red gowns seemed to float above the ground like living sculptures in motion. Even classic tailoring elements—peacoats, tunics with subtle slits at the neckline, or conceptual equestrian hats—were softened. As a result, they gave the collection both structure and lightness.
Balenciaga after Demna: Piccioli’s mission accomplished
Taking over Balenciaga after Demna was a true mission impossible. The Italian designer had to strike a balance between Cristóbal Balenciaga’s legacy, Demna’s innovation, and his own aesthetic sensibility.
As it turned out, Piccioli not only embraced the challenge but turned it into a true artistic statement. His debut blends respect for history with a modern lightness, subtly and intelligently transforming the fashion house’s DNA. That’s why this show is one of the most important of the season. So far, only the Anderson debut for Dior has carried similar weight.
Although it is difficult to compare these two events, they do share a common denominator – playing with the legacy of the fashion house and boldly building their own vision. Not through destruction, but through reconstruction.
Prestige in the front row: Meghan Markle and world-class stars
The front row of the show could not have been more prestigious. The presence of Meghan Markle, making her first appearance in Europe in three years, along with Isabelle Huppert, Kristen Scott Thomas, and Anne Hathaway, underscored the significance of the event. Yet it was not the celebrities, but the collection itself that captured all the attention—quietly yet decisively presenting a new vision for Balenciaga.
From streetwear to timeless chic: the new language of Balenciaga
Piccioli has proven that his debut is neither just a continuation of the past nor a dramatic revolution. Instead of Demna’s ironic sweatshirts and exaggerated streetwear, he introduced timeless, elegant, and thoughtfully designed clothing.
That’s why bomber jackets have transformed into oversized leather “bubbles.” Meanwhile, chinos have taken on couture tailoring. Oversized shirts with long trains, in turn, have become the language of contemporary beauty.
Pierpaolo Piccioli and Balenciaga: fashion that speaks for itself
Elegance. Emotion. Intelligence. Pierpaolo Piccioli’s debut at Balenciaga is more than just a fashion show. It’s a manifestation of elegance, emotion, and intelligent creativity. It proves that Balenciaga can remain experimental and innovative. And, surprisingly, at the same time return to its very essence: perfection of form, attention to detail, and the subtle drama of couture. Pierpaolo Piccioli also reminds us that fashion can be beautiful not only to the eye, but also to the soul.
