Sometimes even haute couture is increasingly balancing between the archives and TikTok. Daniel Roseberry showed that the real power of fashion lies in asking questions, not in replicating old formulas. The Schiaparelli Fall/Winter 2025-2026 show, which took place on July 7 in the majestic interiors of Paris’ Petit Palais, ponders and delights. The history of the fashion house became the starting point for something much more universal. A story of transformation, freedom and the art of thinking in form.
Between surrealism and modernity
The title of the collection, “Back to the Future,” gave away the key. Instead of nostalgia, viewers saw a conscious reconstruction of the past. Elsa Schiaparelli’s surrealism became not a decoration, but an idea. Roseberry, known for his bold designs for celebrities (the memorable “golden lungs” at the MET Gala or anatomical embroideries), this time reduced the palette to black, silver and graphite. Boring minimalism? No. The effect? A show in which form spoke more than color. Minimalism, on the other hand, took on monumental character.
Iconic moments and new proportions
Minutes before the show began, the eyes of the world turned to Cardi B, who appeared in a sculptural gown with a live raven in her hands. Although this was not part of the show, it was a strong opening. It was a literal reference to surrealism and dark elegance. An extremely strong introduction to the collection, in which Roseberry created a new language of evening fashion.
At the center of Roseberry’s collection were soft, sculptural corsets that subtly modeled the silhouette without imposing a rigid framework, but instead allowed the body to breathe and move freely.
The “Apollo Cape” cape, covered with sequin embroidery reminiscent of antique reliefs, combined classic majesty with modern lightness. Next to it came the “Eyes Wide Open Dress,” a gown decorated with hand-painted details. Here the gaze of the dress seemed to follow the viewer, creating the illusion of a dialogue between the creation and the audience.
The whole was complemented by satin gowns with shimmering crystal thongs. Sophisticated, sensual play with eroticism, far from trivial and exaggerated. Critics unanimously noted that Roseberry abandoned the heavy, armored construction of haute couture in favor of illusory panels that harmoniously interacted with the movement of the body. He turned fashion into a poetic dance of form and light.
Demonstration as experience
What made the evening stand out was the atmosphere: the silence and focus that rarely accompanies grand haute couture presentations. There was no shouting of influencers or exaggerated effects. Instead, the audience was literally “trapped” between the past and the future. As one critic wrote:“It was more of a meeting with an idea than a collection,” he said.
Schiaparelli Fall/Winter 2025-2026. Consistency and symbolism
The strength of Schiaparelli’s FW25/26 show was not in shock or controversy, but in consistency. Every silhouette, from the first to the last, carried the same question about the role of the female body in fashion and culture. Roseberry did not romanticize the history of the house, but treated it as a laboratory. Like a true grandmaster he tests new possibilities. That’s why she reinvents classic Schiaparelli codes: surrealism, anatomical details, theatricality.
True art among fashion
Schiaparelli’s Fall/Winter 2025-2026 show immediately became one of the most talked about events of the season. Experts appreciated that Roseberry offered not only clothes, but also the concept of modern luxury. Less decoration, more substance. Less spectacle, more reflection.
At a time when haute couture often becomes a viral image, Schiaparelli has shown that true craftsmanship and conceptual thought can still move.
Schiaparelli Fall/Winter 2025-2026 Futurism with Soul
Schiaparelli Fall/Winter 2025-2026 is not just a collection – it’s a manifesto. Proof that futurism doesn’t have to mean cool. Minimalism does not mean boring. Roseberry has created fashion that intrigues. That’s why she makes you think and delights in detail. And Schiaparelli proved once again that haute couture can be simultaneously contemporary, poetic and deeply rooted in history.
